Jongno, and especially Euljiro, has always felt different from the rest of Seoul.
For Gen Z Koreans, it is one of the few neighborhoods where analog culture still feels alive. It belongs to a time many of us were not born into, yet somehow still want to experience.
I still remember the first time I visited Euljiro about 10 years ago. It felt almost shocking, as if I had slipped into Seoul in the 1980s. Narrow alleys, small old houses packed closely together, woodworking shops, and studios where young artists were just beginning to make their names.
Euljiro today feels different again. It is easier to understand why people call it “Hipjiro.” As young Koreans began looking for a more nostalgic, retro side of Seoul, cafes, restaurants, bookstores, and creative spaces started appearing between the old buildings.
But Euljiro has not lost itself. Its atmosphere still remains. Maybe that is why it feels even more precious. Nobody knows when another redevelopment project will change the area, and that uncertainty makes every visit feel like something worth remembering.
This is a slow day in Euljiro, before it changes again.
Table of Contents
- Euljiro Walking Course at a Glance
- Hugan Books
- Sewoon Arcade
- Coconuzm
- dull
- Doughcument
- Separate Spaces
- Where to Go Next in Seoul
Euljiro Walking Course at a Glance
| Place | Type | Best For | Mood | Address |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hugan Books | Independent bookstore | Art books, fashion books, subculture magazines | Archival, quiet, highly curated | 62-1 Mareunnae-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul |
| Sewoon Arcade | Old electronics arcade | LPs, cassette tapes, vintage audio, analog Seoul | Old Seoul, raw, nostalgic | 159 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul |
| Coconuzm | Vegan gelato shop | A light dessert break while walking | Fresh, experimental, modern | 32 Toegye-ro 36-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul |
| dull | Vintage fashion showroom | Designer vintage, private shopping | Minimal, private, fashion-focused | 18-1 Mareunnae-ro 6-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul |
| Doughcument | Pizza and craft beer | A casual meal after walking | Warm, lively, relaxed | 16 Toegye-ro 27-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul |
| Separate Spaces | Art bookstore | Architecture, fashion, photography, art books | Quiet, visual, gallery-like | 20 Samil-daero 6-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul |
* Swipe sideways to view the full table on mobile.
Hugan Books
- Address: 62-1 Mareunnae-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul
- Hours: 12:00–20:00, closed Mondays
Hugan Books is one of the most talked-about independent bookstores in Seoul right now.
The name “Hugan” means a pause in publication, and the space feels exactly like that: a place where the speed of the city slows down for a moment, allowing forgotten cultural moments to be seen again.
The bookstore focuses on art, fashion, architecture, and subculture books, with a strong influence from European art book scenes in France, Germany, and the U.K. It feels less like a simple bookstore and more like a carefully built archive.
Inside, you will find rare original magazines, out-of-print books, and visual references related to 1990s and 2000s street fashion, music, skate culture, and youth subcultures. For anyone interested in the culture of that era, it feels almost like a treasure room.
What makes Hugan Books special is not only the selection, but also the sense that every book has been found, carried, and placed there with intention. The owners personally collect books from abroad, so even browsing the shelves feels like following someone’s private map of taste.
Recently, Hugan Books has also collaborated with brands such as Sansan Gear and Vans, which makes the space feel even more connected to Seoul’s current creative scene.
If you want to feel Euljiro’s deeper subculture, beyond cafes and restaurants, this is one of the best places to begin.
Sewoon Arcade
- Address: 159 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Sewoon Arcade is a place where old Seoul still lingers.
Walking through Jongno and Euljiro again, I found myself stopping the longest inside Sewoon Arcade. It was once known for electronics parts, audio equipment, and repair shops. Some of that old function still remains, but now you can also find small shops selling LP records, cassette tapes, vintage audio, and old digital cameras.
What makes it interesting is that the retro mood is not artificially designed. The old signs, faded corridors, worn staircases, and slightly dim interiors are still there. Then, in the middle of all that, young people are browsing LPs and listening to old music.
The contrast feels natural rather than staged.
On a weekday afternoon, there were still quite a few people slowly flipping through records. Many seemed more interested in older Korean pop, jazz, and classic pop than new releases. Seeing names like Lee Seung-chul, Shin Seung-hun, and You Yeol on old records made the experience feel especially Korean and strangely intimate.
There are still merchants here organizing electronics parts and repairing old equipment. Walk a little further, and music from an LP shop begins to drift through the building. Past and present Seoul seem to exist inside the same structure at the same time.
These days, Euljiro is full of stylish cafes and bars. But Sewoon Arcade is one of the few places that still keeps its own old atmosphere, even as the neighborhood changes around it.
If Bukchon shows the traditional beauty of old Seoul, Sewoon Arcade shows another kind of history: the industrial, analog, slightly rough Seoul that younger generations are now rediscovering. For a more traditional side of the city, you can also read my Bukchon Hanok Shopping Guide.
Coconuzm
- Address: 32 Toegye-ro 36-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul
- Hours: Daily, 11:30–21:30
After walking through Euljiro’s old buildings and narrow streets, Coconuzm feels like a small reset button.
This vegan gelato shop uses coconut milk, fresh fruit, and vegetables to create 100% plant-based gelato. There is no milk or egg, but the texture still feels smooth, dense, and satisfyingly chewy.
The flavors are part of the fun. Instead of only offering predictable sweet options, Coconuzm uses seasonal vegetables and local ingredients such as roasted tomato, basil, and sweet pumpkin. It is the kind of place where choosing a flavor becomes part of the experience.
For travelers who want something lighter than a heavy cafe dessert, this is a good stop between bookstores, shops, and dinner.
The design of the space also fits Euljiro well. Against the rough backdrop of old printing shops and quiet side streets, Coconuzm’s metallic and modern mood creates a sharp contrast.
A scoop of vegan gelato with olive oil or cracked black pepper may sound unexpected, but in Euljiro, that kind of unexpected detail feels exactly right.
dull
- Address: 18-1 Mareunnae-ro 6-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, 2F
- Hours: 14:00–21:00, closed Wednesdays
After filling your mind at a bookstore and taking a dessert break, it is time to look at clothes.
dull is a vintage fashion showroom that feels almost like entering someone’s private wardrobe. Despite its name, which suggests something muted or blurred, the pieces inside feel anything but ordinary.
The shop introduces designer vintage pieces that stand quietly apart from fast-moving trends. You can expect 1990s minimalism, avant-garde silhouettes, refined tailoring, and details that are hard to find in contemporary ready-to-wear.
What makes dull appealing is its private mood. It operates by reservation through Instagram, which means the visit feels calmer and more personal than a regular vintage shop.
If Seongsu’s brand showrooms feel polished and highly produced, Euljiro’s small vintage spaces feel more intimate and less predictable. For a more contemporary shopping route, you may also want to read my Korean Brand Showrooms in Seongsu.
At dull, shopping is less about finding something new and more about finding a piece that has already survived time beautifully.
Doughcument
- Address: 16 Toegye-ro 27-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, 103
- Hours: Daily, 11:30–21:20 (Break time 15:00–17:30 / Last order 14:00 & 20:20)
At some point during an Euljiro walk, hunger arrives quietly and then all at once.
When that happens, Doughcument is an easy place to settle in. The name combines “dough” and “document,” and the restaurant feels serious about the process behind a simple slice of pizza.
The menu includes classic pizzas as well as special options made with regional Korean ingredients. The dough is slowly low-temperature fermented for 48 hours before being baked, which gives it a crisp outside and a soft, moist center.
What makes the meal even better is the craft beer brewed by Doughcument itself. Pizza and beer may be casual, but here the combination feels thoughtful rather than ordinary.
There is also a small pleasure in watching the open kitchen. Seeing the pizza come together while taking a sip of beer gives the space a relaxed, lively rhythm.
Euljiro is not always about perfectly polished dining. Sometimes, its charm comes from finding a warm, energetic restaurant after wandering through old buildings and quiet corners.
Separate Spaces
- Address: 20 Samil-daero 6-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, 3F 302
- Hours: 12:00–19:00, closed Mondays
Separate Spaces is an independent bookstore in Euljiro, connected in spirit to the world of Post Poetics in Hannam-dong.
The shop focuses on books across art, architecture, fashion, photography, and visual culture. It also hosts exhibitions, talks, and other cultural programs, making it feel more like a small platform for creative exchange than a simple retail space.
As its name suggests, Separate Spaces feels separated from the noise of the city. Once you open the door, the mood changes completely. The space is quiet, clean, and almost gallery-like.
Here, books are not treated only as reading material. They are treated as visual objects, design references, and cultural documents.
You can find museum catalogues, rare art publications, international printed matter, and carefully selected titles that are difficult to come across elsewhere in Seoul.
If Hugan Books feels like a subculture archive, Separate Spaces feels more like a white cube for visual thinkers. Both belong in Euljiro, but they speak in different tones.
Where to Go Next in Seoul
Euljiro is not the kind of neighborhood that tries to look perfect. That is exactly why it stays with you.
Its charm comes from contrast: old electronics shops and new bookstores, faded staircases and vegan gelato, vintage records and designer clothing, casual pizza and serious art books.
It is not just a place to visit. It is a place to notice before it changes again.
Keep Walking Through Seoul’s Other Moods
For another side of Seoul’s creative food and nightlife scene, read my Seoul Celebrity-Favorite Restaurants Guide.
If you are deciding where to stay before exploring neighborhoods like Euljiro, check my Where to Stay in Seoul on Subway Line 2 Guide.
For a softer, more scenic version of Seoul after a day in Euljiro, explore my Best Seoul Hotels with Hangang River Views Guide.
Opening hours, reservations, menus, and store operations may change. Check each official Instagram account or map listing before visiting.
Image Courtesy of @huganbooks, @coconuzm, @dull.ico, @doughcument, and @separate.spaces